HOUSE DRESS
Cassock
The cassock (or soutane) comes in a number of styles or cuts, though no particular symbolism attaches to these. A Roman cassock often has a series of buttons down the front – sometimes thirty-three (symbolic of the years of the life of Jesus). The five buttons on the sleeves are symbolic of the 5 wounds of Christ.
In some English-speaking countries these buttons may be merely ornamental, with a concealed fly-front buttoning, known as a Chesterfield front, used to fasten the garment. A French cassock also has buttons sewn to the sleeves after the manner of a suit, and a slightly broader skirt. An Ambrosian cassock has a series of only five buttons under the neck, with a sash on the waist. A Jesuit cassock, in lieu of buttons, has a fly fastened with hooks at the collar and is bound at the waist with a black cincture knotted on the right side.
The ordinary Roman cassock worn by Catholic clerics is black except in tropical countries, where because of the heat it is white and usually without shoulder cape.
Coloured piping and buttons are added in accordance with rank: purple for chaplains of His Holiness; amaranth red for bishops, protonotaries apostolic and Honorary Prelates; and scarlet red for cardinals.
The 1969 Instruction on the dress of prelates stated that for all of them, even cardinals, the dress for ordinary use may be a simple black cassock without coloured trim.
A band cincture or sash, known also as a fascia, may be worn with the cassock. The Instruction on the dress of prelates specifies that the two ends that hang down by the side have silk fringes, abolishing the sash with tassels.
Priests, Deacons & Seminarians
The cassock is black with black buttons, girded with a black faille fascia. A black watered-silk fascia is permitted for priests attached to the papal household.
Chaplains of His Holiness, Honorary prelates and protonotaries apostolic
Chaplains of his holiness, honorary prelates and protonotaries apostolic wear a black cassock with purple piping, buttons, and purple faille fascia.
Bishops & Archbishops
Bishops and Archbishops wear a black cassock with amaranth piping and buttons, girded with a purple water-silk fascia. An elbow-length shoulder cape with amaranth piping, open in front, is “optionally” worn with the cassock, either fixed to it or detachable. It is known as a pellegrina.
The general rule of the Roman Catholic Church is that the pellegrina may be worn with the cassock by cardinals and bishops.
Bishops and Archbishops also wear their episcopal ring and pectoral cross and amaranth colour zuchetto (skull cap).
Cardinals
Cardinals wear a black cassock with scarlet red piping and buttons, girded with a scarlet red water-silk fascia. An elbow-length shoulder cape ‘pellegrina’ with amaranth piping, open in front, is “optionally” worn with the cassock, either fixed to it or detachable.
Cardinals wear a cardinal’s ring (given by the pope at their elevation), a pectoral cross and scarlet red zucchetto.
The Pope
The Pope wears a white cassock with a white watered-silk fascia with his coat of arms on the ends, white pellegrina, pectoral cross and white skull cap. All buttons and pipings are white for the pope and he also wears white pants. The shoes of the pope are red.
Formal House Dress
Formal house dress may include additionally the biretta and ferraiuolo.
Ferraiuolo
The ferraiolo or ferraiuolo is a type of cape traditionally worn by clergy in the Roman Catholic Church on formal, non-liturgical occasions. Also known as a ferraiolone. It can be worn over the shoulders, or behind them, extends in length to the ankles, is tied in a bow by narrow strips of cloth at the front, and does not have any 'trim' or piping on it.
The colour of the ferraiolo is determined by the rank of the cleric, being black for secular priests, violet for supernumerary protonotaries apostolic and bishops and scarlet watered silk for cardinals.
A ferraiolo of watered silk also denotes the wearer is an apostolic nuncio or is attached to the Papal household. The Pope does not wear a ferraiolo.
Zucchetto (Skull Cap)
In the Catholic tradition, the zucchetto is most commonly made of silk or polyester fabric. The design utilises eight triangular panels that are joined to form a hemispherical skullcap. Jutting from the centre of the zucchetto at the top is the "stem", known as stirpis or stirpes. It is made of a twisted loop of silk cord and is meant to make the handling of the zucchetto easier. The stirpes is the primary visual distinction between the zucchetto and the Jewish kippah.
The zucchetto has a lining of thin leather (chamois) as an insulator; this was also meant to help keep the shape of the zucchetto. Inside the trim there is a strip of velvet to ensure a secure and comfortable fit. Most modern zucchetto designs include a cloth lining, and the modern trend is toward a zucchetto of ordinary synthetic cloth lined with a simple natural cloth lining.
The common tradition is for the cleric to obtain the zucchetto either from an ecclesiastical tailor or a retail church supply. The Gammarelli tailor shop in Rome, for example, has outfitted seven popes beginning with Pius IX in 1846, and is a cherished tradition for the hierarchy. There is also a tradition of friends buying the newly appointed bishop his first zucchetto.
All ordained members of the Catholic Church (Roman Rite) are entitled to wear the black zucchetto (unless promoted to a higher rank) which is worn with either the cassock or ceremonial robes. The zucchetto is always worn beneath the mitre and is always worn beneath the biretta. This is the reason for two of the alternate names for the zucchetto, subbirettum and submitrale.
The zucchetto is never worn with a suit. The violet and red zucchetti are considered a symbolic honor granted to the prelate. In turn, the prelate is privileged to wear his zucchetto, not entitled.
The color of the zucchetto specifically denotes the wearer's rank and is in keeping with the five colors:
White: The pope's zucchetto
Scarlet: Cardinals
Violet: Bishops, territorial abbots and territorial prelates
Black: Priests and deacons, although the use of the black zucchetto by priests is extremely rare. It is, however, quite common for priests assigned to the Vatican to always wear their black zucchetto.
Brown: The one exception to the rule of color is the brown zucchetto frequently worn by ordained Franciscan friars.
The pope may actually wear any color zucchetto he wishes in accordance with the five colors, but always wears a white zucchetto due to his white cassock.
A lower-ranking prelate must always doff his skullcap to a higher-ranking prelate; all prelates must remove their zucchetti in the presence of the pope, unless the pope instructs them not to do so.
The zucchetto is worn throughout most of the Mass, is removed at the commencement of the Preface, and replaced at the conclusion of Communion.
A short zucchetto stand known as a funghellino ("little mushroom", usually made of brass or wood) is placed near the altar to provide a safe place for the zucchetto.
Prelates often give away their skullcaps. The practice, which was started in the modern era by Pope Pius XII, involves giving the zucchetto to the faithful, as a keepsake, if presented with a new one as a gift. Pope John Paul II and Pope Benedict XVI continued the custom.
The pope might choose not to give the visitor his own zucchetto, but rather place the gift zucchetto on his head for a moment, then return it. Bishops, cardinals and archbishops such as Fulton J. Sheen frequently gave their old zucchetto in exchange for the newly offered one; Abp. Sheen also gave his zucchetto as a keepsake to laity who requested it.
Informal House Dress or Everyday Wear
For everyday wear, especially in North America and Great Britain, a clergyman may wear a collared clergy shirt with black or grey coat and pants. Often a black formal jacket is also worn. Cardinals and bishops wear their pectoral cross and tuck the cross into their shirt pocket (rather than let it hang) to distinguish from normal priests.
Some clergy, especially religious, will wear non-clerical dress when about parish duties among those who know them well.
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